We will begin this article with the assumption that
you came to Croatia during the most desirable period - the summer months, and that you plan to spend your vacation in Croatia in the sun, as close as possible to the sea, and ideally in it. However, in the rare moments spent outside the beach, it is definitely worth
exploring the cities and trying local specialities. The sea, as the key element of a summer vacation, also entails assumptions about the type of
food that characterizes places along the coast.
Of course, we are referring to the
seafood specialities that Mediterranean cuisine is known for - fish and seafood. However, in Dalmatia, near
Sibenik, in a very unusual location, there is a small town that defies assumptions, and its name is
Skradin. This town is
famous for its veal risotto, which also delighted the famous chef
Anthony Bourdain, whose recipe is passed down from generation to generation.
Namely, Skradin is a city with a rich history that was also
marked by the Romans, calling it "
Scardona" and using it as one of the administrative centres in the roman province of "Dalmatia". The city was located at the intersection of trade routes and its favourable geographical position influenced the availability of products, and in connection with this, the preparation of meals.
Therefore, do not be surprised if among the recipes for
Skradin risotto as an old, autochthonous dish you see an unusual ingredient for Dalmatian cuisine -
nutmeg! However, the key elements of this dish are similar to those for the preparation of other risottos -
rice, quality stock and the speciality of this delicacy is veal. Skradin risotto has always been a dish associated with celebrations in these parts, where numerous people participate, because the preparation is
long and exhaustive.
It is not quintessentially certain or proven who is the author of the recipe for this dish, but it is known that it has been
passed down from generation to generation among old Skradin families for
over a hundred years, and it is still passed down that way today.
According to tradition only men participate in the preparation of this risotto, but as with other events that were traditionally reserved only for men, today everyone participates in the preparation - regardless of gender and age.
The total preparation of the risotto
can last up to 2 days, while the cooking alone can take up to 12 hours. Everything starts with large pots and chopping a large amount of onions into pieces, which are then sauteed in one of the pots. In the second pot, stock consisting of
veal, some chicken and root vegetables is prepared, which should be cooked slowly,
the longer, the better. Namely, the stock, as in other risottos, not only serves as a liquid for cooking the rice in the final step, but also spices up the entire dish, so it is important that it achieves an
aromatic and strong taste.
For the further preparation of the risotto base in the first pot, veal meat (veal rose), which must be
completely cleaned and cut into cubes, is added to the sauteed onion. From this point on, any help is welcome because
frequent mixing is necessary, which in large pots is not possible with an ordinary wooden spoon, so a
paddle like spoon is often used as a substitute. As already mentioned, Skradin risotto is the
highlight of any celebration, so the preparation itself is an opportunity for the family to gather and prepare this demanding dish together. This is followed by additional pieces of meat and spices to
improve the taste and braising for 5+ hours.
After that, the decision is up to you -
do you still have the strength to continue and finish the meal or is it transferred to the next day. The final steps of the dish are combining the base and stock by perfectly cooking the rice in it, so that the risotto becomes
creamy, which is also achieved by
adding grated cheese. Even the famous Anthony Bourdain in his show "Bourdain: No Reservations" was impressed after tasting Skradin risotto during his visit to Croatia.
The traditional and interesting process of preparing this dish will of course be just
a nice anecdote from your summer trip, so leave the cooking to the masters and
enjoy all the flavours of this speciality with a glass of local wine. However, due to the long preparation of the meal,
do not forget to make reservations in restaurants. The restaurants
Skala and
Cantinetta in Skradin, as well as
Konoba Vinko in Sibenik are
especially famous for Skradin risotto. Enjoying this dish will also be complemented by the
special location of Skradin, like a bay due to its indentation in the continental part of the country.
For those staying in
one of our villas in this part of Dalmatia, it will be even more interesting that the
Krka National Park and the place where the Krka River flows into the Adriatic Sea are located nearby.
Josipa Primorac
17.1.2023
MY ISTRIA GUIDE
